I prefer to work with a strip of fabric that is at least 1" wider than the widest horizontal dimension across the patches that will use that fabric. This size is easy to handle and I can fit the next patch into the leftover fabric in the strip. Experiment, and then use the method that works best for you.
Background: For this pattern (6" x 10" block), cut a strip of the background fabric that is about 4 1/2" wide and 24 " long (or across your fat quarter--you can always cut another strip.) Strongly direction fabric will be more difficult to work with.
Garment fabric: Cut a strip about 3" x 18"
Wing fabric: Cut a strip about 3" x 18". (Since I want the pattern to run from base to tip of the wing patches, the needed width of this strip is less.)
Features: These are small patches, so only scraps are needed
Optional: A lace or sheer fabric as overlay for wings and/or garment. In this case, select the garment fabric to match or contrast with the overlay. (See special directions for each section.)
Pre-wash fabric if desired. Spray lightly with fabric starch or sizing (preferred) as you iron.
Section A will be our learning module, with detailed, step-by-step directions. Directions for the other sections will be given in less detail, except when a new technique is introduced, but you can refer back here to refresh your memory if needed.
These directions are for a "flip and sew" approach. Use the usual "fabric on the back" method if you prefer.
Note: Section B will be finished and then be applied as Patch 5 of section A, so don't let this confuse you.
Fold the paper on the seam line between Patch 1 and Patch 3. Trim excess fabric to 1/4".
Your fabric is now trimmed to 1/4" larger than the patch on 4 of its 5 sides. (The fifth side is an outside seam allowance of 1/2".) Return to the printed side of the pattern.
Note: Sometimes, as you work, you may find that a previous seam sticks out too far into the seam allowance and it is difficult to turn the paper back to trim the extra fabrics. If this happens--and it will--don't pull on the paper. Just run the tip of a seam ripper along that little bit of seam to free that much of the paper.
|In this image (which is actually from section C) you can see the placement of the next patch, with the seam already sewn.|
Tip: Visualize the patch on the pattern and the fabric in sewing position as mirror images of each other. For example, if the patch angles upward from the corner where your seam will start, then you must also allow extra fabric above that point or it will not cover the patch completely. Practice will make this visualization easier.
In some cases, especially in background areas, if a patch doesn't cover completely, you can sometimes just add on a piece with another seam. Remember, I said I take a very relaxed attitude toward this... In fact, if the background area is very large when you have enlarged the pattern, you may wish to do this deliberately to add visual interest to the area.
NOTE: For very tiny patches, you may choose to reduce bulk by trimming to 1/8" on inner seam allowances after the seam has been sewn. However, you should never trim a section's printed seam allowances smaller than 1/4" because that edge must still be sewn to another when the sections are joined. For this little hand patch that means that you could trim the seam allowance smaller on three of its four sides, if you wish.
Option One: Place your background fabric strip, right sides together, along the edge of the fabrics covering Patch 1-2 where it meets Patch 3. Check it's positioning--will it cover Patch 3 generously? Stitch, press, flip, press, and trim to 1/4" beyond the edges of the patch just as you did with Patch 2.
Option Two: Working on the printed side of your pattern, place the edge of your background fabric strip, right side up, along the outer edge so it generously covers Patch 3 and its seam allowances. Pin at the top edge, if you wish. Fold the fabric along the Patch 1-2 edge until the fold just matches the trimmed edge of Patch 1-2. Crease the fabric along this line. Remove the fabric and trim it 1/2" beyond the fold, in effect, adding two seam allowances to the part that was covering Patch 3. Position this new edge along the trimmed edge of Patch 1-2, right sides together, just as you have done previously. Check to be sure it is positioned to cover the patch when sewn. Sew, press, flip, press, and trim to 1/4" beyond the edges of the patch just as you did with Patch 2. Do not trim away the section's outer seam allowance.
Elegant Angel Lesson One:
Introduction Section B,C,D Section EF